If you have hooded eyes, you already know that most standard makeup tutorials don't apply. Placing shadow in your natural crease or drawing a thick line of eyeliner can accidentally make your eyes look smaller, not bigger. But creating a bright, lifted look is easier than you think—it just requires a few smart adjustments to your technique. We're breaking down everything you need to know, from creating a new, higher crease to choosing products that won't smudge or fade. Get ready for a straightforward, actionable guide to simple makeup for older hooded eyes that delivers beautiful, lasting results every single time.

Key Takeaways

• Create Your Crease Higher Up: Since the natural crease on hooded eyes is often hidden, apply your contour shadow with your eyes open, placing it just above the fold to create visible depth and a lifted look.
• Opt for Smarter Formulas: Prevent smudging and transfer by always starting with an eye primer and using waterproof mascara. For definition, swap harsh liquid liner for a soft eyeshadow to avoid closing off the eye.
• Place Shimmer with Purpose: Use matte shadows to build shape and save shimmer for areas you want to highlight. A small pop on the center of the lid and the inner corner brightens the eyes without emphasizing the hood.

What Are Hooded Eyes and How Do They Change Over Time?

Understanding your eye shape is the first step toward a makeup routine that makes you feel confident. Hooded eyes are incredibly common—you might have had them your whole life or noticed them developing over time. The key is to work with your eye shape, not against it. Once you learn a few simple adjustments to your application, you’ll see how easy it is to create a bright, lifted look. It’s not about changing your eyes, but about celebrating them.

First, what are hooded eyes?

So, what exactly are hooded eyes? This eye shape features a small flap of skin under the eyebrow that partially or fully covers the mobile eyelid when your eyes are open. This "hood" conceals your natural crease, which can make your eyelids appear smaller. Many people are born with this feature, and it’s a stunning characteristic. The goal with makeup isn't to hide the hood, but to create dimension and the illusion of more lid space. With the right placement of light and shadow from your favorite eye makeup, you can make your eyes the star of the show.

How aging changes their appearance

As we age, our skin naturally loses some of its elasticity. For those with hooded eyes, this can mean the hood becomes a bit more prominent. You might notice that your eyes look a little smaller or more "closed" than they used to, or perhaps you feel they look tired even when you’re well-rested. This is a completely normal part of the aging process. The goal for many is to create a more open, defined, and lifted appearance. The good news is that makeup is a powerful tool for achieving this, helping to brighten the entire eye area for a refreshed look.

Why old makeup tricks might not work anymore

Have you ever followed a makeup tutorial step-by-step, only to find it doesn't look right? If you have hooded eyes, this is a common frustration. Most standard makeup advice tells you to apply a darker shade in your natural crease. The problem is, with hooded eyes, that crease is hidden when your eyes are open, so your blending work disappears! Instead of fighting your anatomy, you need to adjust your technique by applying shadow above your natural crease so it’s visible. If you're struggling to adapt your routine, a Virtual Beauty Consultation can offer personalized tips just for you.

Makeup Techniques to Beautifully Enhance Hooded Eyes

Working with hooded eyes isn't about hiding them—it's about using makeup to create dimension and lift in all the right places. Forget everything you learned about placing dark colors in your natural crease. For hooded eyes, we have to create our own rules. The key is to place and blend shadows where they’ll actually be seen when your eyes are open, giving you a brighter, more lifted look. It might feel a little strange at first, but once you master these simple adjustments, you’ll see what a huge difference they make. These techniques are designed to enhance your unique eye shape beautifully, ensuring your hard work doesn’t disappear the moment you open your eyes.

Create a new crease above your natural fold

With hooded eyes, your natural crease is often hidden. So, instead of applying shadow there, we’re going to create a new one. Look straight into a mirror with your eyes relaxed and open. See where the hooded skin folds over your lid? Your new crease will go right above that fold. Using a soft matte shadow from our eye makeup collection, gently sketch out this new line. This technique creates the illusion of depth higher up on your eye, making your lid space appear larger and more defined. It’s the most important step for adding dimension back to your eyes.

Blend upward and outward for a natural lift

Once you’ve placed your new crease color, the direction you blend is everything. Instead of following the natural curve of your eye socket, you’ll want to blend the eyeshadow upward and outward, aiming toward the tail of your eyebrow. This motion creates a subtle, flattering lift that visually opens up the entire eye area. Use a fluffy blending brush to diffuse the color softly, ensuring there are no harsh lines. This technique counteracts any drooping and gives the eye a more awake and youthful appearance. It’s a simple switch in motion that delivers a seriously impressive result.

Apply makeup with your eyes open (it’s a game-changer)

This might be the single most important tip for hooded eyes. If you apply your eyeshadow with your eyes closed, you can’t see how the hood will cover your work once you open them. By keeping your eyes open and looking directly into the mirror, you can map out exactly where your shadow needs to be for it to stay visible. This allows you to place your new, higher crease perfectly and see how far you need to blend the color up. It ensures your liner and shadow won’t smudge or disappear into the fold, making your application practically foolproof.

Use highlighter strategically to brighten and open up the eyes

A little bit of light-reflecting shimmer can work wonders. The trick is to be strategic with where you place it. Using a light, shimmery shade from one of our best-selling palettes, add a small pop to the inner corner of your eye. This instantly brightens and makes you look more awake. Next, apply a tiny amount just under the arch of your brow bone. This adds a touch of lift and helps define your brow shape. These two simple placements catch the light beautifully, drawing attention to your eyes and making them appear larger and more vibrant without emphasizing any texture on the lid itself.

The Best Makeup Products for Mature, Hooded Eyes

Once you’ve mastered the right application techniques, it’s time to make sure your makeup bag is stocked with products that work with you, not against you. For mature, hooded eyes, the formula and finish of your products are just as important as the placement. The goal is to find makeup that defines, brightens, and stays put without creasing or smudging on the skin of your brow bone. This isn't about buying a dozen new things; it's about being selective and choosing items that truly serve your eye shape.

Choosing the right products can make all the difference between a look that feels heavy and one that appears fresh and lifted. We’re talking about formulas that are long-wearing, colors that are richly pigmented, and textures that flatter rather than emphasize fine lines. From the perfect primer that creates a smooth canvas to the softest shadow for lining your eyes, having the right tools on hand makes the entire process simpler and more effective. Let’s walk through the essential eye makeup products that will help you create a beautiful, wide-eyed look every single time.

A great eye primer is non-negotiable

If you only add one new product to your routine, make it an eye primer. Think of it as the foundation for your entire eye look. For hooded eyes, primer is especially important because the extra fold of skin can cause eyeshadow to rub off and settle into creases throughout the day. A good primer creates a smooth, slightly tacky base that helps your eyeshadow adhere better and stay vibrant from morning to night. It acts as a barrier, preventing oils from breaking down your makeup and ensuring your hard work doesn't disappear after a few hours. It’s a simple step that makes a world of difference.

Cream vs. powder: Which eyeshadow is best for you?

Both cream and powder eyeshadows can work beautifully on mature, hooded eyes—it often comes down to personal preference and the look you’re going for. The key is to choose highly pigmented formulas so you don’t have to apply too many layers, which can feel heavy. Matte shades are perfect for creating depth in your new, higher crease, while a touch of a soft, satin or shimmer shadow on the center of your lid can add a beautiful pop of light. Many people find long-wearing cream shadows are great for a simple, one-and-done look that won’t budge.

Choose waterproof formulas to prevent smudging

One of the most common frustrations with hooded eyes is makeup transfer. Because your upper lid rests on your lash line when your eyes are open, mascara and eyeliner can easily smudge onto your brow bone, creating a messy look. To avoid this, always opt for waterproof and smudge-proof formulas. A reliable waterproof mascara will keep your lashes lifted and defined without leaving little black dots on your lids. The same goes for eyeliner—a long-wearing formula will ensure your definition stays exactly where you put it, right at the lash line.

Swap harsh eyeliner for a soft brown shadow

Heavy, dark eyeliner can sometimes make hooded eyes appear smaller and more closed off. Instead of a stark black liquid liner, try using a medium brown eyeshadow to gently define your eyes. Using a small, angled brush, press a soft brown or taupe shadow as close to your upper lash line as possible. This technique, called shadow liner, creates a softer, more diffused definition that enhances your eyes without weighing them down. It gives the illusion of thicker lashes and a more defined eye shape in a much more subtle and flattering way.

Brighten your waterline with a nude pencil

Here’s a classic makeup artist trick that works wonders for making eyes look bigger, brighter, and more awake. Instead of lining your lower waterline with a dark color (which can close the eyes off), use a nude or creamy beige eyeliner pencil. This simple swap instantly neutralizes any redness and creates the illusion of a larger eye. It’s a subtle change that has a huge impact, making you look more rested and refreshed. It’s the perfect finishing touch to open up your eyes and complete your look.

Common Makeup Mistakes to Avoid with Hooded Eyes

Sometimes, the makeup rules we learned years ago no longer serve us, especially when working with hooded eyes. Certain popular techniques can accidentally make our eyes look smaller or draw attention to the hood instead of our beautiful eye color. The good news is that a few simple adjustments can make all the difference. By understanding what not to do, you can refine your technique and create a look that feels fresh, bright, and completely you.

Let’s walk through some of the most common missteps I see with hooded eye makeup and how to easily correct them. Avoiding these will help you achieve that lifted, wide-awake look you’re going for, ensuring your makeup enhances your features instead of hiding them. It’s all about working with your unique eye shape, not against it.

Applying dark shadow in your natural crease

If you have hooded eyes, placing a dark eyeshadow directly in your natural crease is one of the quickest ways to make it disappear. When your eyes are open, the hooded skin folds over, hiding that perfectly placed shadow completely. Instead of defining your eyes, this can make them look smaller. The trick is to create a new, higher crease. With your eyes open and looking straight ahead, apply your contour shade just above where the hood sits. This technique adds depth where it will actually be visible, creating the illusion of a more defined and lifted eye.

Using heavy black eyeliner that can shrink your eyes

While a sharp, black cat-eye is a classic look, it can be incredibly harsh on hooded eyes. A thick, dark line of eyeliner can take up valuable lid space, making your eyes appear smaller and more closed off. Instead of reaching for the black liquid liner, try a softer approach. Use a deep brown or charcoal eyeshadow with an angled brush to press a soft line along your lashes. This method provides beautiful definition without the severity, giving you a more wide-eyed and youthful appearance. It’s a simple swap that delivers a much more flattering result.

Forgetting to apply eye primer first

Skipping eye primer is a mistake for any eye shape, but it’s especially problematic for hooded eyes. The extra fold of skin means there’s more opportunity for your eyeshadow to rub, smudge, and settle into fine lines throughout the day. A good eye primer creates a smooth, grippy canvas that helps your eye makeup adhere properly and stay vibrant from morning to night. It’s a non-negotiable first step that ensures your hard work doesn’t fade or crease away, keeping your look flawless and polished for hours.

Overdoing it with shimmer

Shimmery eyeshadows are gorgeous, but they need to be placed strategically on hooded eyes. Because shimmer reflects light, applying it all over the lid and up onto the hood can emphasize texture and make the area look more prominent. It’s best to use matte shades to create depth and structure in your new, higher crease. Save the shimmer for a strategic pop on the areas you want to bring forward, like the very center of your mobile lid, the inner corner of your eye, or just beneath the arch of your brow. This placement adds a beautiful touch of light without overwhelming your look.

Your Go-To 5-Step Makeup Routine for Hooded Eyes

Ready to put these techniques into practice? This simple, five-step routine is designed to work with your eye shape, not against it, creating a beautifully defined and lifted look. We’ll walk through how to place each product to make your eyes the star of the show. The goal isn’t to hide your hooded lids but to enhance your unique features with a few smart adjustments. It’s all about creating light and shadow in the right places to give the illusion of more space and definition. Grab your favorite neutral eyeshadow palette, and let’s get started on a look you’ll feel confident in.

Step 1: Prep with primer and a light base color

First things first: never skip eye primer. For mature skin, and especially for hooded eyes, a good primer creates a smooth surface and gives your eyeshadow something to grip onto. This is the secret to preventing color from creasing or transferring onto the skin above your lid throughout the day. Once you’ve applied a thin layer of primer, sweep a light, matte eyeshadow from your lash line all the way up to your brow bone. This step neutralizes any discoloration and creates a bright, even canvas for the rest of your eye makeup.

Step 2: Build depth above your natural crease

This is the most important step for creating dimension. With your eyes open and relaxed, look straight into the mirror. Instead of applying a darker shadow in your natural crease (which is likely hidden), you’re going to create a new crease. Using a fluffy blending brush and a soft, matte brown shadow, apply the color just above your natural fold, right on the area where your eyelid meets the bone. Blend this color upward and outward in a gentle windshield-wiper motion to create a subtle lift and the illusion of depth.

Step 3: Add a pop of shimmer to the center of your lid

A little bit of light-reflecting shimmer can make your eyes look bigger and brighter. Take a light, shimmery eyeshadow and press it onto the center of your mobile lid—the part that’s visible when your eye is open. Using your fingertip often provides the best color payoff and helps the shadow melt into the skin for a seamless finish. Just be sure to keep the shimmer below the new crease you just created. This strategic placement draws light to the center of your eye, making it appear more open and awake.

Step 4: Define your eyes with a soft shadow liner

Harsh, thick eyeliner can close off hooded eyes and make them appear smaller. For a softer, more flattering look, use a dark matte eyeshadow as a liner instead. Dip a small, angled brush into a deep brown or charcoal shadow and press it along your upper lash line, getting as close to the roots of your lashes as possible. You can gently smudge it for a smokey effect that adds definition without a hard edge. For more impact, try tightlining your upper waterline to make your lash base look fuller.

Step 5: Finish with a coat of lengthening mascara

The final touch is a great mascara to curl and lift your lashes. Lashes can get lost under a hooded lid, so a formula that lengthens and separates is your best friend. Wiggle the wand at the base of your top lashes to build volume at the root, then pull it through to the tips. Applying a couple of coats of a product like our Lash Envie Lengthening Mascara will help open up your eyes and complete your look. If you find mascara often smudges on your brow bone, a waterproof or tubing formula is an excellent choice.

How to Choose the Most Flattering Eyeshadow Colors

When you have hooded eyes, choosing the right eyeshadow color is less about chasing trends and more about strategic placement. The right shades can create the illusion of depth and lift, making your eyes appear larger and more defined. Forget complicated palettes with dozens of colors you’ll never use. Your most powerful tools are a curated collection of neutrals that help you play with light and shadow. By focusing on a few key shades, you can easily build a look that’s both beautiful and flattering for any occasion.

The core principle is simple: use light colors to bring areas forward and darker shades to make them recede. For hooded eyes, this means keeping the mobile lid and brow bone bright while adding soft definition just above your natural crease. This simple trick creates a new, lifted contour that opens up the entire eye area, making your eyes the star of the show. Our collection of eye makeup is designed with this philosophy in mind, offering rich, blendable pigments in timeless shades that enhance, rather than hide, your natural beauty. It’s all about working with your unique eye shape to create a look that feels effortlessly you.

Embrace light, neutral shades to enhance your eyes

Think of light eyeshadow as your personal spotlight. Placing a light, luminous shade on the parts of your eye you want to emphasize will instantly make them look brighter and more prominent. For hooded eyes, this means sweeping a soft ivory, champagne, or pale pink shadow across your entire eyelid, from the lash line up to the crease. You can also add a touch just under the arch of your brow. As one makeup artist puts it, using a light, shimmery shade on your eyelids and just under your brow bone helps to “‘wake up’ your eyes.” This simple step creates contrast and gives the illusion of more lid space.

Rely on soft browns and taupes for an everyday look

Soft, matte neutrals are the secret to creating believable definition on hooded eyes. Colors like taupe, sand, and muted browns are perfect for sculpting that new, higher crease we talked about. Unlike harsh, dark colors that can make eyes appear smaller, these softer tones add depth in a subtle, natural way. Use a fluffy brush to blend a medium-toned matte shadow in an arc just above your natural crease, extending slightly outward and upward toward the tail of your brow. This technique provides a gentle lift that defines your eye shape beautifully. Our Envy eyeshadow palette includes the perfect range of buildable neutrals for this.

Opt for highly pigmented formulas that stay put

When you have limited lid space, you want your eyeshadow to perform. Look for highly pigmented formulas that deliver true color in a single swipe. This is important because layering on too much product can lead to creasing and a heavy, textured look, especially on mature skin. A high-quality shadow will give you the impact you want without the bulk. It’s also wise to choose formulas that are designed to last, preventing the smudging and transferring that can happen with hooded lids. A mix of matte and satin finishes will give you the most versatility for creating dimension.

Eyeliner Tricks That Make Hooded Eyes Look Bigger

If you have hooded eyes, you might have a complicated relationship with eyeliner. A thick, dark line can easily get lost in your crease or, worse, make your eyes appear smaller. But don't give up on liner just yet! The right techniques can define your eyes and create the illusion of more space, making them look bigger and brighter. It’s all about working with your unique eye shape, not against it.

The key is to be strategic with where and how you apply your liner. Instead of drawing a heavy line across your entire lid, we’ll focus on subtle tricks that add definition without sacrificing precious lid space. These methods are simple to learn and can completely change your eye makeup game. From creating the look of a fuller lash line to brightening your eyes for a more awake appearance, these tips will help you fall back in love with eyeliner.

Master tightlining for subtle definition

Tightlining is your secret weapon for defining hooded eyes. This technique involves applying eyeliner directly to your upper waterline—the strip of skin just beneath your upper lashes. By placing the color here, you create the illusion of a darker, fuller lash line without drawing a visible line on your eyelid. This is a perfect hooded eye makeup solution because it adds incredible definition without taking up any of that valuable lid space. To try it, gently lift your upper lashes and trace a soft, waterproof pencil right between the roots of your lashes. The result is a subtle, natural-looking enhancement that makes your eyes pop.

Use eyeshadow as a softer alternative to liner

For a softer, more forgiving look, try swapping your traditional eyeliner for a dark eyeshadow. A harsh liquid or pencil liner can sometimes look too severe on mature skin or close off hooded eyes. Using a powder shadow creates a diffused, smoky effect that defines the eyes in a much gentler way. Simply grab a small, angled brush and dip it into a medium brown or charcoal eyeshadow. Then, press the shadow as close to your upper lash line as possible, wiggling it into the roots of your lashes. This approach gives you a beautifully blended and natural appearance that enhances your eyes without overwhelming them.

Try the nude eyeliner trick for a brighter, more awake look

This is one of the simplest and most effective tricks for making your eyes look bigger and more vibrant. Instead of using a dark pencil on your lower waterline, which can close the eyes in, switch to a nude or creamy beige eyeliner. Tracing this color along your lower waterline instantly neutralizes any redness and extends the whites of your eyes. This simple step creates a brighter, more awake appearance that helps you look refreshed and alert. It’s a quick fix that offers a huge payoff, especially on days when you’re feeling tired. This little bit of brightness makes a world of difference for hooded eyes.

Can You Still Do a Smokey Eye with Hooded Lids?

Yes, you absolutely can! The classic smokey eye is a timeless look, and there’s no reason to give it up just because of your eye shape. The fear with hooded eyes is that dark, dramatic makeup will make them look smaller or that all your hard work will disappear under the fold of your lid. But the truth is, you don’t have to avoid this look—you just need to adapt it. It’s all about smart placement and technique.

Instead of following traditional tutorials that might not work for your features, you’ll learn to create the illusion of depth and lift exactly where you need it. By focusing on building color above your natural crease and using a mix of matte and shimmer textures strategically, you can create a stunning, open-eyed smokey look that’s both dramatic and flattering. It’s not about fighting your eye shape; it’s about working with it to highlight your beautiful eyes. With a few simple adjustments to your eye makeup routine, you’ll be able to master a smokey eye that feels custom-made for you.

How to adapt bold looks for your eye shape

The biggest secret to a successful smokey eye on hooded lids is creating a new crease. Since your natural crease is hidden, you’ll want to apply your deeper eyeshadow shades slightly above it. With your eyes open and looking straight into the mirror, find the area just above where your hood sits. This is your new canvas. Apply your contour shade here, blending it upward and outward toward the tail of your brow. This technique creates the illusion of a higher, more defined crease, which in turn makes your eyes appear more lifted and open.

Build intensity gradually without overwhelming your eyes

A smokey eye doesn’t have to be harsh. For mature, hooded eyes, it’s best to build the color slowly. Start with a light, brightening shade across your entire lid and just under your brow bone to create a clean base. This simple step helps your eyes look more awake. As you add deeper shades, apply them in thin layers and blend thoroughly. Instead of reaching for a stark black eyeliner, which can close off the eyes, try a soft brown or charcoal shadow applied with an angled brush. This gives you that sultry definition without the severity, keeping the look soft and flattering.

Know when to use shimmer (and when to skip it)

Shimmer is your friend, but it needs to be used with intention. Applying a shimmery shadow all over the lid can sometimes emphasize the hooded part of your eye. The best approach is to use matte shades to create depth and shape in your new, higher crease. Then, add a strategic pop of shimmer. A touch of a light, reflective eyeshadow on the inner corner of your eye, right in the center of your mobile lid (the part that moves when you blink), or just below the arch of your brow will catch the light beautifully. This placement draws attention to the right spots, making your eyes look brighter and more open.

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Frequently Asked Questions

I'm new to all this. What's the single most important change I can make to my routine for hooded eyes? The most impactful change you can make is to apply your crease color with your eyes open while looking straight into a mirror. Instead of placing the shadow in your natural fold, apply it just above where the hooded skin rests. This ensures the color is actually visible and creates the illusion of depth and lift where you need it most.

Can I still wear eyeliner? I feel like it always disappears or makes my eyes look smaller. You absolutely can wear eyeliner, but the technique needs a little adjustment. Avoid thick, heavy lines that take up precious lid space. Instead, try tightlining your upper waterline to define your eyes at the lash root. Another great option is to use a dark brown eyeshadow with a small angled brush to press a soft, smoky line right along your lashes for definition that won't feel harsh.

I love shimmery eyeshadows, but I've heard they're not great for hooded eyes. Is that true? It’s not that you have to avoid shimmer, you just need to be strategic with it. Shimmer reflects light, so you don't want to place it all over the hooded area as it can emphasize it. Use matte shades to create your new, higher crease, and then place a pop of a light, shimmery shadow on the center of your mobile lid or at the inner corner of your eye to create a beautiful focal point.

Do I need to buy a bunch of special brushes to do my makeup for hooded eyes? You don't need a huge collection, but two brushes will make a world of difference. A fluffy blending brush is essential for softly diffusing the shadow in your new crease without any harsh lines. A small, flat angled brush is also incredibly useful for applying eyeshadow as a soft liner along your lash line.

My hooded eyes have become more noticeable with age. Will these techniques still work for me? Yes, these techniques are perfectly suited for mature eyes. In fact, they are designed to create a more lifted and open appearance, which is often the goal as our skin changes. The key is to always start with an eye primer to create a smooth base and to focus on blending your shadows upward and outward to visually counteract any drooping.